A two-member Iranian expedition is going to climb a new route on the
south-west face of Broad peak (8047 m) the 12th highest peak on the
earth, which is located in Karakoram in Pakistan.
Iranian climbers, Ramin Shojaei and Kazem Farydian who decide to acclimatize
on the normal route and do an alpine try on a new route in Broad peak
left Tehran toward Islamabad on June 12 and flew to skardu on June
17.
This is the first Iranian expedition who tries a new route on 8000+
peak. Haft Gohar co. a local firm has partially sponsored the expedition,
which has shared the Broad peak permit with a French expedition.
Both team members - Ramin Shojaei and Kazem Faridyan - has accomplished
a number of climbs in Iran. Ramin also climbed Rakaposhi (7788m) in
1997, and Khan Tengri (7010m) in 2002.
“After Rakaposhi,
I read a bunch of Mountaineering books. Among them was Kokocka’s
“My Vertical World”. There we find that Kokocka and Korticka
were going to try the virgin south ridge, but they change their mind
and concentrate on the big traverse of Broad peak.
Keeping this challenge in mind, for the years I followed the matter
and found that no successful attempt has been done on this ridge where
its demanding part starts from 7500m. Yes, opening a new route on
a 8000er by the name of Iran was tempting.
Now, it was my turn to persuade others and convince them of the value
of the attempt.”, Ramin writes in his
personal weblog.
It was last year that two Iranian mountaineers summitted Broad peak
from the normal route as the first Iranians. It is worth mentioning
that a strong Italian-Kazakh expedition is going to attempt a new
route on the same face of Broad peak too.
IMZ News Department
June 18, 2005
left image : Ramin in a snow cave in Khan Tengri
Right image : Kazem (left) at the top of Alamkuh
Alam Kuh North Wall, A New Route In Winter, 2001 - Ramin Shojaei
Leila Bahrami, a member of Iranian Women 2005 Everest Expedition arrived
in Tehran on June 8.
Dr. Goodarzi, the medical doctor of the expedition
and Leila’s uncle accompanied her from Katmandu, where she had
been confined in a hospital.
She had been fallen in a brain trouble on south route of Everest about
two weeks ago. She was carried down to BC and was evacuated by a helicopter
to Katmandu.
Arriving in Tehran, Leila was carried directly to hospital and is
confined there now. She seems Ok, though the after effects of the
injury are still visible.
It is worth mentioning that as the member of national Iranian women
expeditions, Leila was already summitted Ararat in Turkey and Mera
peak and Pumory in Himalaya.
IMZ News Department
June 9, 2005
Photo : Leila Bahrami (right) and Farkhondeh Sadegh (left) before leaving Tehran at Tehran's Mehrabad Airport, March 2004 - IMZ Archive
Iran 2005 Everest Expedition comes back home on Monday June 13, according
to public relation of Iran Mountaineering Federation. Six men and
two women of this expedition summitted Everest on May 30.
They will arrive in Imam Khomeyni Airport in Tehran on June 13 at
16:30.
Photos of 8 Iranian Everest
Summiteers who scaled top of the world on May 30, 2005
Public Relation of IMF
June, 2005
Dideban-e-Koohestan (mountain guard) department of Alpine club of
Iran has participated in the sixth International Exhibition of Environment
in Iran, which has been held at Tehran’s Permanent Fairground
from June 8.
The exhibition is open to public from 10:00 to 17:00 up to June 12.
Alpine club of Iran
June, 2005
According to EverestNews.com and based on the report of Liaison officer
and Leader of Iranian Expedition, 8 members and 4 sherpas from the
expedition has summitted Everest today May 30.
The following is the list of Iranian 2005 Everest Expedition summiteers:
1. Mr. Eghbal Aflaky Aghbelagh (51) Leader, Alpinist, Iran
2. Mr. Mahmoud Shoaei (43) Member, Engineer, Iran
3. Mr. Azim Gheychisaz (24) Member, Iran
4. Mr. Reza Bahadorani (27) Member, Jewellery Sellar, Iran
5. Ms. Farkhondeh Sadegh (36) Member, Designer, Iran
6. Ms. Laleh Keshavarz (26) Member, Dentist, Iran
7. Mr. Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa (37), Climbing Sirdar, Juving, Kharikhola-1,
Solukhumbu, Nepal
8. Mr. Chhang Dawa Sherpa (23), Makalu-9, Sankhuwasava Nepal
9. Mr. Lhakpa Sherpa (44), Khumjung -1, Solukhumbu, Nepal
10. Mr. Karma Gyalgen Sherpa (21) Makalu-9, Sankhuwasava, Nepal
11. Mr. Reza Zarei Toudeshici, (36), Member, Alpinist, Iran.
12. Mr. Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani (46), Member, Mountain Guide, Iran
Among them are two Iranian women. As two representatives of Iranian
women, Farkhondeh Sadegh (Graphic Designer) and Laleh Keshavarz (Dentist)
scaled the top of the world to pave the way for new generation of
Iranian women. They are also the first Muslim women who scaled the
highest point of the world.
IMZ News Department
May 30, 2005
Image: Iranian Women on the top of Everest - Courtesy of Iran Mountaineering Federation
6 men and 2 women from Iranian 2005 Everest Expedition, summitted
Everest from the south route this morning -Monday May 30- at 10:45 local
time.
According to IMF’s public relation, Sadegh Aghajani leader of
Iranian Expedition has announced the news on Iranian at the top of
Everest in a call from BC. They have summitted Everest in the big
wave of mountaineers from the south col. There is no news still on
the name of summiteers.
It is worth mentioning that 2 women who have summitted are the first
Iranian women at the top of the world. They are also the first muslim
women at the top of Everets, too.
IMZ News Department
May 30, 2005
53 men and 17 women participated in the entrance test of IMF’s
Level 2 and Level 3 Ice and Snow Instruction courses in Hasandar valley
some 40 km northeast of capital on May 19 and 20. The annual course
will be held in late summer for those who pass this entrance test.
IMZ News Department
May 21, 2005
It is May 12, but the wind is still screaming in high altitudes in
the great mountain. Coming news from Everest south BC shows that anxiety
increases. All expeditions are waiting for good weather conditions
to ascend but weather window is still disappointing.
During last week we heard two times about big avalanches in south
face. For the first time, the news of a big avalanche from west shoulder
of Everest on C1 was on the top on news. Wednesday May 4, on 5:30
morning the avalanche hit the camp 1. According to news, it destroyed
90 percent of the tents of C1 and injured at least 7 climbers, but
fortunately there was no death. Pierre Bourdeau a Canadian member
of International SummitClimb Lhotse 2005 expedition and Durga his
sherpa were among the injured ones. They were headed down to BC by
rescuers at the same day, and evacuated to Kathmandu by a helicopter
on Saturday. Pierre has described the avalanche in
an interview by Binaj Gurubacharya
in Kathmandu.
The Iranians’ tents in C1 didn’t damage in the avalanche.
Azim Ghaychisaz, Jalal Cheshme-Ghasabani and Dr Goudarzi were the
first ones who approached the Pierre as he said. The Iranians in a
dispatch to EverestNews.com confirmed it. “They did not have
life threatening problems. We contacted to Base camp and asked from
our leader to going to summit climb camp and inform them for helping
their members”, they added.
  
Friday May 6, in the morning another avalanche crashed down on Dr
Robert Goh, 39, member of the Singapore Premier Taxi Everest Expedition
without O2 at the bottom of Lhotse face. In this accident, Robert
narrowly escaped from death.
So during last 10 days, after death of Dr. Sean Egan, 63, and Mike
O’brien, 39, the bad news of avalanche went on the track. Now
all in BC are expecting the good weather condition for their summit
push.
Image 1: Rescuers bring down the sherpa Durga from the icefall
Image 2 : Jason Barilla, member of SummitClimb 2005 Lhotse Expedition, wearing his smashed helmet after the avalanche
Images 3: Moments after the avalanche in bottom of Lhotse face
IMZ News Department
May 12, 2005
Source: www.EverestNews.com & www.explorersweb.com
All images courtesy of www.EverestNews.com
Iran Mountaineering Federation is going to hold the entrance test
for Climbing Instruction courses for men and women. The entrance test
of Rock Climbing Instruction course will be holding on May 12 and
13 where the entrance test of Ice Climbing Instruction course will
be hold a week later.
All who are interested should contact IMF or the Mountaineering Council
of respective province.
IMZ News Department
May 8, 2005
Entrance test of IMF’s level 2 and level 3 Mountaineering Instruction
course held in Tochal Mountain in Tehran.
As well as 63 men who were participated, there were 27 women who participated
in the test, which was held by IMF for the women as the first time
after 1979 Islamic revolution. It was the Council of Women Mountaineers
as the organizer of such courses for women up to 2004, when the Physical
Education Organization of Iran decided to get the sport federations
to undertake the activity of sportswomen.
The mentioned courses will be held on July 2005, according to IMF’s
calendar.
IMZ News Department
May 7, 2005
Two days after receiving the news on Iranians in C1, we heard about
setting up of C2 in 6500 m, where the expedition members spent a night.
According to news released by IMF, all are fine and motivated.
Source: IMF Public Relation
April 21, 2005
Iran Mountaineering Federation announced that Iranians has
set up their first camp at 6100 m. They are ready to set up their
second camp at 6500m in Western Cwm, some 7 km away from C1.
All members are fine based on last call from expedition leader, according
to IMF’s public relation.
IMF Public Relation
April 18, 2005
Live Image from Everest BC
Five days prior to Persian New Year (Nowruz in March 21), Iranian
2005 Everest Expedition left Tehran. The Expedition composed of 21
members, left Tehran’s Mehrabad Airport on March 16 toward Katmandu.
Sadegh Aghajani, head of IMF who is reinstated by Physical Education
Organization of Iran for few more months before upcoming IMF’s
presidential election is leading this expedition, which is the second
one to Mount Everest after 1979 Islamic Revolution. Seven women climbers
of this expedition are the first Iranian women ever tried to summit
Everest.
It was in 1978 one year before Islamic revolution that first Iranian
Expedition composed of 20 members in a joint expedition with Chinese,
attempted Mount Everest from its north face, when they could reach
up to 7500m.
Twenty years later in 1998, the second Iranian expedition, leading
by Sadegh Aghajani attempted the south face from Nepal. Four out of
17 members of this expedition summitted Everest through south col
on May 20, 1998. Mohammad Oraz, Hassan Najarian, Jalal Cheshme Ghasabani
and Hamidreza Olanj were the first Iranians on the top of the world.
Among this group, Oraz died five years later
in G1 when attempting his six 8000er. Also you can find the name of
Cheshme Ghasabani in the list of climbers in 2005 expedition.
In May 2000, Saeed Toosi an Iranian-American summitted Everest from
south route in an independent attempt. He was the fifth and the last
one bearing Iranian flag in the top of the world.
According to public relation of Iran Mountaineering Federation, all
members of Iranian 2005 Everest expedition are now in BC after acclimatizing
on Kalapathar. All are well and ready for pushing the team to C1.
Iranian 2005 Everest Expedition :
1- Sadegh Aghajani (Leader)
2- Eghbal Aflaki (Leading Assistant)
3- Jalal Cheshmeh Ghasabani
4- Ms. Farkhondeh Sadegh
5- Ms. Rezvan Salmasi
6- Ms. Laleh Keshavarz
7- Ms. Roya Sadat-Ghazanfari
8- Ms. Leila Bahrami
9- Ms. Nasrin Nemati
10- Ms. Parvin Rezaei
11- Reza Zarei
12- Shahab Raeisi
13- Azim Gheychisaz
14- Reza Bahadorani
15- Mehdi Sharifi
16- Farhad AziziMoghadam
17- Javad GheeahShenas
18- Mahmoud Shoaei
19- Mahmoud Goudarzi (MD)
20- Khalil Abdnekouie (Photographer)
21- Mehrdad Goudarzppour (Cameraman)
IMZ News Department
April 15, 2005
pic 1: Iranian 2005 Everest Expedition - IMF's public relation
pic 2: Sadegh Aghajani, Tehran's Mehrabad airport, March 2005 - IMZ's Archive
pic 3: Iranians on te top of Mount Everest, 20 May 1998 - IMF's archive
More shots on Iran 2005 Everest Expedition
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