Iran’s mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation is going to hold Level-2 rock climbing instructor training course for outdoor instructors from October 4th to 8th in "Pol-e-Khab" climbing resort.
After a test that was took place among 22 level-3 instructors on last July, eight men were approved to follow level-2 instructors training subjects in a period of 4 days in October, 2010. The invitees are Ehsan Jabari, Amir Sadeqi, Amir Moqimi, Hamed Keramat, Husain A.Nezhad, H.Reza Shafaqi, Majid Qasemi and Mehdi K.Khani.
This is the second time that a course carried out to train level-2 rock climbing men instructors in the country.
IMZ News Department
September 2, 2010
A series of climbing competitions in women’s category entitled as "Ramadan Cup" has been started in Tehran since August 26th, 15th of Ramadan in lunar calendar.
"The first competition was held at "Taheri" gym in Tehran, where 20 women climbers from Tehran and Karaj cities participated in bouldering and lead categories. Lead competition was set on a facile route graded as 5.10d, where Nasim Eshqi managed a top out and took the first place. She followed by Sara Manafi and her younger sister Solmaz, who competed two times due to their equal points in the first round. Afterwards climbers’ performance checked in bouldering with 4 different routes set from 5.10a to 5.11d difficulty range. One again, the top leaders topped the ranking, but this time Solmaz and Nasim changed their places," said gym manager, Nasrin Abdol-Rahimi.
She added: "we consider "Ramadan Cup" mainly as a preparation camp for women climbers over Tehran province to increase their skills and confidence for national comps. It has includes three stages, which has been planned to be held every three weeks."
IMZ News Department
August 31, 2010
A 6-member Iranian expedition reached the summit of Mt. Noshaq (4792 m), the second highest summit over Hindu-Kush range on August 29th.
"Husain Asghari, Mohammad Rafiei, Iraj Taheri and Gholam Nodehi from Golestan province along with H.Reza Sanjari and Amin Moein respectively from Tehran and Hamedan provinces topped the highest peak of Afghanistan 17 days after arrival in BC at 4500m," reported by MSCCT’s official website.
After the summit done by Mehdi Amidi and Azim Qeychi-Saz in autumn, 2007 and an unsuccessful attempt in 2009, this is the third Iranian expedition set off to Mt. Noshaq.
IMZ News Department
August 30, 2010
Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation of Iran requested Mayer of Tehran to prevent illegal constructions in "Kara" wood at southern foot of Tochal massif.
"Illegal constructions such as road and building projects have been speeded up at the northern massif of Tehran during few recent years. Such events do irreparable damages on mountain environment and also have negative impacts on mountaineering society. Now constructions have extended to "Kara" wood, an attractive trekking pass at "Tochal" massif. So please take the necessary steps to prevent further violations in the area a.s.a.p," Mahmoud Shoaei wrote to the mayor of Tehran, M.B. Qalibaf.
IMZ News Department
August 28, 2010
Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation of Iran announced a list of 7 women and 8 men climbers admitted as members of national adults climbing team for 2010 Asian Cup.
Alnaz Rekabi, Farnaz E.Zadeh, Sajadeh S.Nezhad, Nadia Javandel, Azam Karami and Fatemeh Meqdadi are the women climbers, while men’s team comprises of Davoud Rekabi, Ali B.Zadeh, H.Reza T.Jani, Reza P.Moqadam, Omid Sh.Bahaei, Sobhan Jafari, Mohsen M.Nezhad, Mohsen Shafiei and A.Hamzeh P.Shafi.
These climbers have been picked up among 24 climbers after a 7 day breath taking selection camp in Zanjan, where a team of 5 instructors were checking their performance in Bouldering, Lead and Speed categories. Soon after announcement, they were called by MSCFI for a 10-day preparatory camp from August 30th, before setting off toward China.
IMZ News Department
August 25, 2010
An expedition of women climbers from Khorasan Razavi province in NW of Iran reached to the top of Mt. Lenin (7135 m), the 2nd highest summit of the Pamirs on August 21st.
"The first summit push started on Thursday August 19th, but stopped just 200 m beneath the summit due to adverse weather condition. Climbers descent back to C3 at 6100 m and sit out bad weather. The summit attempt started once again at midnight, August 21st by five women along with the leader and his assistant. The weather did not improve and was still snowing, when they reached the summit of Mt. Lenin 13 hours later," reported by Khorasan Mountaineering Council.
The summiteers has spent last night in C3 hoping to reach BC with all their camp stuffs in a day or two.
The expedition members are Basireh H.Zadeh, Mahboubeh Baqban, Hakimeh V.Nia, Zahra Abdollahi, Zahra Arqiyani, Sara Safaeeyan, Masoume Qashqaei, Razieh Qazanfari, Zari Soleimani, Husain Amani (leader), Javad Norouzi (assistant) and Majid Mazhabi (doctor). The female climbers had been picked up after 16 preparatory and selection camps since August, 2009.
IMZ News Department
August 22, 2010
Tehran’s women mountaineers have planned an all-female expedition to Mt. Azad-kouh (4390 m), the highest summit of middle Alborz range, for September 16th and 17th.
Supported by women’s department at mountaineering & Sport Climbing Council of Tehran, the first expedition set off to west Alborz range in June 2010. They were 37 women from 15 mountaineering clubs of Tehran, who celebrated 70 years of Iranian women & alpinism history on the top of Mt. Kahar (4050 m).
IMZ News Department
August 19, 2010
Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Council of Tehran (MSCCT) starts a novel collaboration with university alpine clubs over Tehran.
"The first meeting in May, 2010 resulted in a decision to establish a special committee in MSCCT dedicated to miscellaneous problems of university alpine clubs. It was also decided to hold an election among university candidates in the next session to direct the committee. The next meeting was supposed to take place on August 16th, but canceled due to university holidays," said MSCCT’s boss, Kaveh Kashefi.
He also added: "Sports committee of Education & Science Ministry is very much eager to resume its mountaineering department, which stopped working in 2005, because of a few sad happenings in university expeditions."
IMZ News Department
August 18, 2010
The 91st meeting of Alpine Club of Iran will be held tomorrow, August 18th from 17:00 to 20:00.
At the beginning, M.Reza Ahmadian will talk about a canyoning trip in "Tang-e-Zendan", a beautiful long valley in Zagros range. Then, the meeting goes on with another presentation about sweeping Damavand’s north route of waste materials. During a 2-day attempt, Two Tehrani clubs have collected all sorts of abandoned materials and brought them down Damavand, last week.
The meeting will end up with mountaineering news, by Abbas Sabetian.
IMZ News Department
August 16, 2010
Abbas Mohammadi and Pezhman Zafari from "Arak" city climbed "Crsytal Fall", a 12-pitch difficult route on the east part of "Alam-Kouh" wall.
"Established in 2001 by two Italian climbers in a period of 7 days, "Crystal Fall" is a combination of fingertip cracks and vertical faces, which make it as one of the challenging routes on the wall. We started at 6:00 a.m. on August 5th. Nine pitches graded as difficult as 5.12a/A3 were climbed in a poor weather. Meanwhile, a 45-minute hailstone falling made everything wet. After the 9th pitch, the route continued on a 5-pitch snow covered slab to the summit, where last two pitches were full of rolling stones. However, we reached the top at about 1:00 a.m., August 6th and became the second Iranian rope-mates to climb the route," Abbas said on a call to IMZ News.
Prior to Araki climbers, Husain Alaei together with Mehdi Farid from Tehran had climbed the Italian route in 2007, but in siege style during a 3-day attempt.
IMZ News Department
August 15, 2010
"Arash" Mountaineers Club’s members, Nasim Habibi and Marzieh Karami climbed "Alam-Kouh" wall on July, 29th and entitled as the second female expedition ever to do the job.
"These two rope-mates managed climbing the 350-meter "Rost-Alaei" route at over 4000 meters on the eastern side of granitic "Alam-Kouh" wall. It took them 12 hours to climb the route and forced to bivouac just below the summit (4864 m)," told Club’s technical authority, Hasan Gerami.
First record of climbing on "Alam-Kouh" wall by an Iranian woman goes back to 1989, when Soheila T.Zadeh from "Arash" club achieved the summit via the French route. Also in 2006, Leila Esfandyari from Damavand M&S Club along with her partner, Monireh Rafiei from Kermanshah climbed the Polish route in the middle of the wall. That was the first ascent on "Alam-Kouh" wall done by an expedition of just female climbers.
IMZ News Department
August 12, 2010
Twenty four men and women belong to adult age group were invited to take part in a climbing selection camp from August 16th to 22nd in Zanjan, which will result Iran’s adult climbing team.
According to MSCFI’s official website, invited climbers both in women and men categories were among the top climbers during the 11th National Championship. The bests of these entrants during this 6-day camp will be picked up as members of Iran’s national climbing team for 2010 Asian Climbing Championship in China.
Female Invitees are: Elnaz Rekabi and Farnaz E.Zadeh from Zanjan, Sayeh T.Zadeh, Zajadeh S.Nezhad, Azam Karami, Nadia Javandel and Fatemeh Jafari all from Kerman, Negar Varshowchi and Fatemeh Solaimani from Hamedan, Fatemeh Meqdadi from Khorasan Razavi and Nasrin Abdolrahimi from Tehran.
Male invitees are: Davoud Rekabi from Zanjan, Ali B.Zadeh and H.Reza T.Jani from Khorasan Razavi, Reza P.Moqadam, Omid Sh.Bahaei, Sobhan Jafari, Mohammad Jafari and Behzad F.Pour all from Kerman, Mohsen M.Nezhad and Mohsen Shafiee from Qazvin, Sina Sheikhi from Khuzestan and A.Hamzeh P.Shafi.
IMZ News Department
August 12, 2010
Tehran men and women expeditions got back in New Delhi this afternoon six days after getting to the top of Mt. Nun (7135 m), the highest peak in the part of Himalayan range lying on the Indian side of Jamu and Kashmir.
According to official website of MSCCT, Tehran expeditions left the mountain on August 7th, the day after coming back BC from the summit. They arrived in "Tongal" village, when flood had washed away the linked road to "Kargil" and no way had remained except waiting till Monday, then going on toward New Delhi.
Both expeditions are officially welcomed by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran at Imam Khomeini airport on Saturday, August 14th.
IMZ News Department
August 11, 2010
Seven members of both men and women expeditions of Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran summited Mt. Nun (7135 m) at 19:30 (local time), August 5th.
"Attempting for a couple of hours above C2 in a snowy weather, both expeditions reached C3 on August 4th. It was the first time to touch C3 at 6500m. They sit out bad weather till mid day on August 5th, but no considerable change occurred. Thus, seven men and women teamed up toward the summit at 13:00 (local time) in an extreme weather. They passed a mixed route, fixing ropes meter by meter to reach the top and eventually it happened at 19:30 local time on Thursday, August 5th," MSCCT’s official website reported.
According to the last call, Tehran mountaineers were descending back to BC on Friday, August 6th after spending the night after summit in C3.
IMZ News Department
August 7, 2010
Tehran’s men and women expeditions left C2 toward C3 on east side of Mt. Nun on Wednesday, August 4th hopping for summit in coming two days.
"Both expeditions have spent last two nights in C1 and C2. Now, they are getting closer to C3 at 6480 m and after a short rest there, summit push will start via the eastern ridge,’ reported by leader, M.R. Kafash on a call yesterday.
IMZ News Department
August 5, 2010
Three members of "Spilat" mountaineering club of Tehran topped out Mt. Mustagh-Ata (7545 m), NW of China on August 4th.
"Parvaneh Hamidi, Hamid Mahmoudi and I reached the summit at 12:00 a.m. local time and then descent back down. We slept last night in C2 at 6200 m and arrived in BC this noon, August 5th," told exp. Leader, Zabihollah Hamidi.
IMZ News Department
August 5, 2010
Mohammad Mohammadi and Morteza Gholam-pour, the stranded climbers on Alam-Kouh wall were airlifted to "Roudbarak" shelter, in "Kelardasht" city of Mazandaran at 8 o’clock this afternoon, August 4th.
"Along with Husain Boland-Akhtar and Hasan Gerami, we began to rappel from the summit onto the central gully at 17:00, August 3rd. it took us 6 hours to fixed 210 meters rope to a snow-full ledge, where the climbers had bivouaced for more than 48 hours. Covering with dry clothing and drinking a little amount of warm tea charged them for a short jumaring, just 210 m! We just eyed them till they got safely to the top at 3:00 a.m., this morning. Afterwards, Mohammad and Morteza crawled into the tent pitched on the summit for a short rest, till the chopper arrived," told rescuer Omid Amohammadi.
"The helicopter was noticed somewhere around "Khersan" hut at 4650 m altitude on the SW shoulder of summit in the morning, but foggy weather didn’t allow touching down and it returned back to "Roudbarak". Eventually, at 7 o’clock this evening, the chopper took of once again and fortunately could take the climbers from "Khersan" hut back to Roudbarak," Omid continued, "however; I really appreciate the pilot, captain Abbas Goudarzi and Sadi Mohammadi, the representative of IRI Red crescent for the outstanding attempt they did to rescue the climbers."
IMZ News Department
August 4, 2010
Two members of rescue team found the stranded climbers alive at 20:15 on the granitic wall of Alam-Kouh in a cold and foggy weather.
"An adequate amount of warm clothes and food stuffs have been lowered down to the location, so climbers could be raised up to the top tomorrow in a safer condition," told head of Tehran Mountaineering Council, Kaveh Kashefi.
IMZ News Department
August 3, 2010
The rescue efforts to evacuate the stranded climbers on the northern wall of Mt. Alam-Kouh have started from the summit (4864 m) since this afternoon.
"This morning, two groups have left their tents on "Alam-Chal" Glacier toward the summit, one form eastern route and the other one from German Flank in the west. Also Arash mountaineers have been airlifted to "Hesarchal", southern side of the summit to join the rest," told rescue organizer, Javad Nezam-Doust.
"The rescuers were lowered down from the summit, although a heavy fog has embraced the wall since 2’O clock this afternoon. They should have reached the spot by now (19:00 p.m.)." Javad added.
IMZ News Department
August 3, 2010
Two climbers from Khorasan-Razavi got stranded in the upper third of 700-meter northern wall of Mt. Alam-Kouh (4864 m), western Alborz.
They were two rope mates set off to climb the "French" route on Granitic wall of Alam-Kouh on August 1st. Approximately 10 pitches had been climbed, they had reached the beginning of central gully that the weather became snowy. They forced to stop climbing and had no considerable move to get rid of the situation since then.
Meanwhile, rescue efforts have started from "Alam-Chal" glacier at the base of the wall. Also four experienced climbers from Arash Mountaineers club are waiting to be air lifted to the region.
IMZ News Department
August 1, 2010
Men and women expeditions of Tehran province set up the second camp around 6100 m on east side of Mt. Nun, located in Indian side of Himalaya.
"Tehran expeditions set off on July 30th toward C1, which had set up on July 27th, the day after arrival in BC. Early on Saturday, the male and female alpinists left C1 in a good weather to reach C2. Finally after an exhausting attempt to put 700 meters of fixed rope, they all arrived in 6100m and set up C2, then headed back to BC, after a short rest. The summit push is probable in their next attempt," MSCCT’s official website reported.
IMZ News Department
August 1, 2010
A group of four mountaineers from "Arak" city succeeded to climb "Zard-Kouh" ridge, a long layer of Zagros Range in south west side of Iran.
"We started from "Cheri" Cole on July 15th. It took us five days to reach "Haft-Tanan" summit through more than 40 peaks around 4000 meters. This is a long trekking in Zagros, SW of Iran. In some places we should descend as much as 700 meters and then took the way up on the opposite side. The highest point was "Kolounchi" peak, which was about 4221 meters," told one of the members, Mohammad Jalali.
"Zard-Kouh and several mountainous regions like that have passed over by Iranian mountaineers due to their increasing appetite for Himalaya, Karakoram and Pamir in recent years. It is the origin of "Karoon" and "Zayandeh-Roud", two large rivers in Iran. There are large glaciers, some with approximately 200 meters depth," Mohammad added.
Mohammad was accompanied by Ali-Reza Moradi, Mostafa Abbasi and Mehdi Mozafari in this 5-day trip.
The only record of this trekking goes back to 1992 by Ebrahim Babaei and his decedent fiends Fereydoun Esmaeil-Zadeh, Jalal Raboki, Majid Bani-Hashemi and Ali Mohammad-Pour.
IMZ News Department
July 29, 2010
Male and female expeditions of Tehran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council reached the bottom of Mt. Nun (7135 m) on Monday, July 26th.
"There are two Indian and Spanish expeditions other than Tehran expeditions in base camp at 4600 meter," council’s official website reported.
IMZ News Department
July 27, 2010
A 53-year old mountaineer rescued on Saturday, July 24th 51 hours after his fall at 4800m on west side of Mt. Damavand.
The event occurred on July 22nd, when Gholam-Husain Shah-Mir was getting back from Damavand summit (5671) on his 53rd birthday. He had fallen down for less than 10 meters on a rocky slope. More than 50 mountaineers were on the west route but just a few of them went up for rescue. They just could put him in a sleeping bag and a safe place for future efforts. Besides, Air rescue was impossible in that altitude due to lack of well-equipped choppers.
However, a team of 3 alpinists reached the place at 7:30 a.m. on July 24th. Thankfully to god, he was still alive. After first aid operations, Ghola-Husain was carried down by a group of approximately 20 mountaineers to west route’s BC around 3500 m at 6:30 p.m., where a helicopter evacuated him to hospital.
IMZ News Department
July 25, 2010
Iran’s 11th National climbing championship in female category finished on July 23rd in "Polour" gym, where Kerman got known as the best of 22 participant teams.
"Women’s lead started on July 21st with 77 climbers came from 22 provinces of the country to compete in four Age groups; Youth A, B, Junior and adults. Youth and junior climbers were qualified on two different routes graded as 5.10bc and 5.11ab. No one managed a top on the harder qualifier in youth group, so that an easier route with 5.10c grade was set for their final round. Also a 5.11bc was set for junior’s final," said head of competition, Masoueh Gorji.
Adult’s lead attended by 33 climbers was divided into three different rounds. Qualifier was graded as 5.11b, semi-final was held on the same route with juniors final and the final route was set as difficult as 5.12b.
At the end of one week competitions in three categories of Speed, Bouldering and Lead, where 147 climbers had participated from 22 provinces, Zanjan and Gilan provinces respectively followed Kerman in championship’s final ranking. Also Masoud Zeynali was the chief route setter.
The top leaders in each age group are listed in the following table.
Rank |
Youth A |
Province |
Youth B |
Province |
Junior |
Province |
Adults |
Province |
1 |
Maryam Joudaki |
Markazi |
Samira Soheili |
Yazd |
Fatemeh Jafari |
Kerman |
Elnaz Rekabi |
Zanjan |
2 |
Atefeh R.Pour |
Fars |
Kobra L.Z.Far |
Hormozgan |
Maryam Sanjideh |
Hormozgan |
Arqavan S.Kish |
Gilan |
3 |
Mahsa A.Mardani |
Markazi |
Fatemeh Etebari |
Kerman |
Samira Afzali |
Kerman |
Negar Varshowchi |
Hamedan |
IMZ News Department
July 25, 2010
Five days after leaving Iran, Tehran’s male and female expeditions hope to reach "Kargil", north side of India on July 22nd.
"Arriving in New Delhi, Tehran mountaineers have visited Indian mountaineering federation before flying to "Leh". They had planned today to reach "Kargil", the last city to visit. Trekking toward the BC of Mt. Nun (7135m) will start in a day or two," told MSCCT’s head, Kaveh Kashefi.
Led by Mohammad-Reza Kafash, Tehran’s female and male expeditions include 4 women and 5 men picked up after an 8-round selection process. Expedition’s leader is assisted by two instructors, a doctor and a logistic supporter.
IMZ News Department
July 22, 2010
Mamoud Hasan-Zadeh won the male veterans lead competition that was hold in memorial of Farshad Khalili on July 15th at Taheri climbing gym of Tehran.
There were 11 climbers aged more than 35 from Tehran and Arak cities competing on qualifying route with 5.10bc grade, where 8 men managed a top and entered the second round. The second round has been assumed as the final but 3 climbers completely climbed a 5.11bc route and got neck and neck on points. Therefore Fatak Mousavi set a harder route as difficult as 5.12ab, where Abbas Mohammadi from Arak and Goudarz Nategh from Tehran respectively followed Mahmoud without any top out.
This competition had been organized by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of Tehran (MSCCT).
IMZ News Department
July 21, 2010
The 90th monthly meeting of Alpine Club of Iran will start at 5:00 P.M. on July 21st in "Shahryaran-e-Javan" culture hall.
According to ACI’s official website, the meeting will set by a presentation about a Farsi website that serves a room to everyone on internet to point out his opinions subjected to mountaineering. It is called "Wiki-Pakoob". Then this meeting goes on with a description about the International caving expedition in "Megalaya" region, NE of India, which was attended by erfan Fekri and Leila Esfandyari last February.
IMZ News Department
July 20, 2010
Iranian star climber, Elnaz Rekabi won women’s bouldering in 11th national climbing championship, which is going on till July 23rd at "Polour" climbing gym, southern side of Mt. Damavand.
"Women’s open bouldering competition started on July 19th with almost 40 climbers from 13 provinces vying in qualification round and finished this evening, where 6 climbers were competing to achieve more tops on final routes. The finalists were Elnaz Rekabi and Farnaz Esmaeel-Zadeh both from Zanjan, Nasrin Abdol-Rahimi from Tehran, Sayeh Tajalizadeh and Fatemeh Jafari from Kerman and Negar Varshowchi from Hamedan," said comp’s spokeswoman, roya Fardi, "and it was Elnaz, who topped bouldering podium. She followed by Nasrin, the winner of 10th championship and Sayeh."
IMZ News Department
July 20, 2010
Iran’s 11th national climbing championship in female’s category started on July 16th with speed competition in "Davoudi" gym.
According to MSCFI’s official website, 26 female climbers from 10 provinces of the country belonging to four age groups had attended. Top climbers in each age group are listed in the following table.
Rank |
Youth A |
Province |
Youth B |
Province |
Junior |
Province |
Adults |
Province |
1 |
Nazanin A.Nezhad |
Kerman |
Kobra L.Z.Far |
Hromozgan |
Zahra Hamzeei |
Markazi |
Sajadeh S.Nezhad |
Kerman |
2 |
Ameneh M.Zadeh |
Gilan |
Zeynab Saljuqi |
Kerman |
Aida Iranmanesh |
Kerman |
Farnaz E.Zadeh |
Zanjan |
3 |
Zahra M.Nezhad |
Kerman |
Fatemeh Etebari |
Kerman |
Razieh Khandani |
Kerman |
Azam Karami |
Kerman |
IMZ News Department
July 19, 2010
At the end of men’s speed competition in 11th national climbing championship that was held in four age groups on July 15th, 6 climbers from Khorasan-Razavi province took half of distributed medals.
Speed was the last competition in men’s category where 17 climbers in Youth A, 10 climbers in Youth B, 19 juniors and 22 adults were competing to achieve national team’s membership and that made the competition so challenging. The final results are given in the table below.
Also Khorasan-Razavi, Kerman and Zanjan provinces respectively tiered higher than the other 20 teams in men’s category.
Rank |
Youth A |
Province |
Youth B |
Province |
Junior |
Province |
Adults |
Province |
1 |
Rasoul Jafari |
Khorasan Razavi |
Seyed Moeen R.Nia |
Khorasan Razavi |
Iman E.Far |
Khorasan Razavi |
Reza P.Moghadam |
Kerman |
2 |
Saeed Hemmati |
Khorasan Razavi |
Saleh Neghabi |
Khorasan Razavi |
Mohsen Asgari |
Khorasan Razavi |
Mohsen M.Nezhad |
Qazvin |
3 |
Farzin Ghajerieh |
Markazi |
Morteza Feyzi |
Zanjan |
M.Mehdi Nouri |
Khuzestan |
Omid Sh.Bahaei |
Kerman |
IMZ News Department
July 19, 2010
Iran’s big wall climbing veterans, Esmaeel Motehayer-Pasand died of heart attack on July 15th, while trying to pass the entrance test for Level-2 rock climbing instructor’s course in Pol-e-Khab climbing resort.
Despite a bypass surgery he had undertaken a few years ago, but Esmaeel’s tendency to push his climbing limits was not seriously affected. Born in 1968, his fame in iran’s mountaineering society was due to a few outstanding experiences such as membership in Iran’s national expedition to Mt. Rakapushi (1997), membership in Azad university’s expedition to Mont Blanc (2001) and Kilimanjaro (2003), opening a new route on northern wall of Alam-Kouh in winter (2001), opening a new route on western wall of Alam-Kouh (2008), opening a new route on Bistoon Wall (2007/2008), opening a new route on "Ab-e-Ask" Wall (2007) and instructing several courses with the theme of "Search and Rescue".
IMZ News Department
July 16, 2010
Passing more than 1 month after Iqbal Aflaki’s resignation, Hadi Saberi was appointed by MSCFI’s head, Mahmoud Shoaei as federation’s interim secretary.
At the same time with Iqbal, Homayoun Bakhtiari had also resigned from MSCFI’s committee of foreign affairs, where an unknown person named "Mohammad Fahimi" has served as committee head since end of last June.
But contrary to Mohammad Fahimi, 36-year old Hadi Saberi is a well-known person in Iran’s mountaineering society. He was the technical authority of Haft-Khan mountaineering group in Karaj city during last few years and also had the membership of Iran’s national expedition to Dhaulagiri last spring. He is also a teacher recruited by ministry of education since 1996.
IMZ News Department
July 15, 2010
Men’s speed competition in Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship will be held tomorrow, July 15th in four age groups at "Davoudi" climbing gym of Tehran.
According to competition’s manager, Mohammad Tabibi, qualification round is supposed to start at 9:00 A.M., July 15th with 68 climbers from 12 provinces vying on the new mounted speed climbing wall in "Davoudi" gym.
Also it is worth noting that just male spectators are allowed to take part.
IMZ News Department
July 14, 2010
Having gone by just 14 days after arriving in BC, Azim Gheychi-Saz topped out Mt. Nanaga-Parbat (8125 m) on Saturday, July 10th.
According to MSCFI’s official website, Azim has gotten to the summit along with Nepalese brothers, Mingma and Dava and also three Korean climbers at 14:00 (local time) and has dispatched his summit when back in C4.
Prior to Nanga-Parbat, 29-year old Azim Gheychi-Saz has summited Everest (2005), Broad-Peak (2008) and Dhaulagiri (2010).
IMZ News Department
July 11, 2010
Ahmad-Reza Solgi, Khosrow Hashem-Zadeh and Davoud Rekabi took the first place of men’s lead respectively in Youth A, Junior and Adults groups in Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship.
"Thursday, July 8th, in the evening the final round of lead competitions were held among respectively 10 and 13 entrants in Youth A and Junior group. The route was set as difficult as 5.13a, more challenging than qualifying routes and no one manage a top," Said competitions’ head judge, Babak Zia.
Adult’s semi-Final route was as same as Youth final with 27 climbers competing on. At the end 8 climbers entered the final round without just one top out. Therefore another 5.13a was set for the final to determine the winner and that was Davoud Rekabi, who gripped higher hold than the others and repeated his championship like in 2009.
The champions of each age group are listed in the following table.
Rank |
Youth A |
Province |
Junior |
Province |
Adults |
Province |
1 |
A.Reza Solgi |
Hamedan |
Khosrow H.Zadeh |
Khorasan Razavi |
Davoud Rekabi |
Zanjan |
2 |
M.Sadegh Yousefi |
Zanjan |
Iman Ehsani-Far |
Khorasan Razavi |
Gh.Ali B.Zadeh |
Khorasan Razavi |
3 |
Majid Darabi |
Khorasan Razavi |
A.Reza Amirian & Sina Rahmati |
Khuzestan & Kerman |
H.Reza T.Jani |
Khorasan Razavi |
IMZ News Department
July 10, 2010
Spending last night in C4 on Kinshhofer route, Azim Gheychi-Saz will put his effort to summit Nanga-Parbat today if everything specially the weather condition goes right.
According to MSCFI’s official website, Azim has set up C3 and C4 during last two days with summit push in his mind for Saturday, July 10th.
IMZ News Department
July 10, 2010
Iran’s 11th National Lead Climbing comps got finished in men’s Youth B group where 34 climbers had participated to take national team’s membership for 2010 Asian Youth Champ.
"In youth B final round, none of the 10 entrants managed a top on a route 5.12a route but Mohammad-Husain Dast-Ranj from Kermanshah, who fell on the same hold that the second champ fell, took the first position in final ranking due to his superb performance in qualification round that resulted in 2 top out on both qualifying routes. Following him, Mohammad Reza Big-Deli and Hamed bagheri both from Zanjan took the silver and bronze medals. At the same time, Adults’ qualification was held on a 5.12a route in Flash style, where 27 out of 46 entrants were admitted to compete in semi-final round," told MSCFI’s representative, Mohammad Tabibi.
IMZ News Department
July 8, 2010
Kinshofer route’s second camp saw Azim Gheychi-Sazand along with Nepalese
brothers, Mingma and Dava again on Wednesday, July 7th.
"Azim and his friends could eventually exit BC after one week and directly went to
C2. They were hoping to arrive at C3 today," MSCFI’s official website reported.
IMZ News Department
July 8, 2010
Iran’s 11th National Lead climbing champs in men’s category
started this morning at "Polour" climbing gym with 173 attendees in four age
groups.
"Just in a couple of hours, 173 climbers from 23 provinces registered for lead
comps in youth A,B, Junior and Adults age groups. It is a shocking record since the
beginning of Iran’s climbing competitions. Qualification has been started among
130 climbers belong to Youth A,B and Junior groups since this morning on two different
routes with difficulty grades of 5.11ab and 5.12ab and the ranking will be set based on
total point amassed from both qualifiers," Mohammad Tabibi told IMZ News.
Adults’ qualification has been postponed to Thursday, July 8th.
IMZ News Department
July 7, 2010
Iran’s 11th National Climbing Championship started on Monday, July 5th at Polour climbing gym, where Gholam-Ali Barat-Zadeh won men’s bouldering after a two-day
contest.
"Thirty seven climbers from 18 provinces took part in bouldering’s
qualification, where 20 of them were validated for semi-final round after attempting on
5 various routes. In the second round another 4 problems were set, where Gholam-Ali
Barat-Zadeh, Hamid-Reza Touzand-e-Jani, Khosrow Hashem-Zadeh all from Khorasan Razavi,
Sobhan Jafari from Kerman, Masoud Ghasemi from Tehran and Arash Doustdarian from
Luristan entered final round," said MSCFI’s representative, Mohammad Tabibi.
This evening, July 6th bouldering’s final comps were held on 4 new
routes and Gholam-Ali, Hamid Reza and Sobhan respectively took first prizes.
IMZ News Department
July 6, 2010
Iranian Leila Esfandyari and Azim Gheychi-Saz have sit out bad weather on K2 and
Nanga-Parbat since last few days.
"Azim has left C2 downward on Wednesday, June 30th due to bad weather
coming. He is still in BC along with his Nepalese friends and hopes weather improvement
in two or three days," MSCFI’s official website reported.
Same weather condition has reported from K2, where Leila Esfandyari and her two high
altitude porters (HAP) are waiting for snow to stop.
IMZ News Department
July 4, 2010
A group of five people were picked by Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Council of
Tehran (MSCCT) to accompany Tehran’s men and women expeditions during their
attempt on Mt. Nun.
"Both teams will be led by Mohammad Reza Kaffash, who is assisted by Mohammad
Naderian, Younes Reza-Khani, Masoud Hamidi (doctor) and Jafar Naseri (logistic
support)," told head of MSCCT, Kaveh Kashefi.
Mohammad Reza Kaffash was the leader of Tehran’s women expedition on Spantik last
summer, where all members got to the top via normal route.
IMZ News Department
July 3, 2010
The 5th joint expedition of Iranian mountain bloggers known as "pen" expedition will be held on Mt. Mehrchal (3192m) on July 22nd and 23rd
.
"Born in 2006, Pen expedition is an independent movement by Iranian mountain
bloggers, who like to meet each other in their beloved places. For the fifth time it has
been planned to summit one of the 3000ers in middle Alborz range near Tehran, which is
sponsored by "Haft Gohar" company and assisted by "Lavasan"
mountaineering group," told expedition organizer, Erfan Fekri.
IMZ News Department
July 1, 2010
Iranian climbers on Pakistani 8000ers took the way up the base camps in K2 and
Nanga-Parbat early this week.
"Leila has set up C1 on Abbruzi spur along with a train of mountaineers on Sunday,
June 27th and descent back to BC the next day. She is still looking for
proper weather window to resume," Iranianchallengers reported.
"The route smells very dangerous, fixed lines are very old and surely need
repairing," Leila told on her call.
Also on Diamir side of Nanga-Pabat, it looks that joining with two Nepalese has
revealed Azim’s abilities much more than before.
"Azim along with his Nepalese mates spent last night in C2 (6000m) just two days
after arrival in BC and were planning to reach C3(7100m) in coming days." MFI
reported.
IMZ News Department
June 30, 2010
French GHM organization along with Mountaineering Federation and Alpine Club of Iran is
going to hold an international big wall climbing festival on "Bistoon"
gigantic wall from October 16th to 22nd.
"Suggested by GHM, this festival is a good opportunity for worldwide
popularization of "Bistoon" limestone wall with 1200m height and 9km length
located near Kermanshah, west of Iran. Till now 30 European and 2 American climbers
have been invited. We like this festival to be cooperation between Iranian and foreign
climbers to set new routes on the wall and also to check old routes from the sense of
safety," said festival organizer, Ebrahim Notash.
He added: "climbers will be accommodated in an ancient inn at the foot of
"Bistoon" wall, which had been abandoned for several years. It gets revived
by Iran’s cultural heritage and tourism organization for the coming festival."
IMZ News Department
June 29, 2010
After a 7-day trek from Skardu, Iranian female climber Leila Esfandyari arrived in
base camp on K2 yesterday, June 21st.
"Tuesday will be my rest day and I will walk into ABC on Wednesady, June 23rd," she said on a short call to Iranianchallengers.com.
IMZ News Department
June 22, 2010
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